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中国人最爱吃的水果 在美国怎么就成了种族歧视符号




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6/13/2018

中国人最爱吃的水果 在美国怎么就成了种族歧视符号



主要分布于非洲马达加斯加岛南部和西部干燥森林中的环尾狐猴食用西瓜以防暑降温(图源:VCG)

当下正值中国炎热的夏季,作为世界最大的西瓜产地,有“盛夏之王”美誉的西瓜以其清爽解渴、甘味多汁、富含多种营养成份而被广受欢迎。

但是,被誉为中国人夏天最爱吃的水果的西瓜,在美国特殊历史环境下却演化成了一种充满争议的文化符号,与种族歧视扯上了关系,有关西瓜的争论及引发的事件隔一段时间或就会爆发一次

福克斯新闻曾报道,41岁的美国消防员罗伯特•帕蒂森(Robert Pattison)曾因为一个西瓜而失去了工作。

2017年9月30日,于罗伯特而言本来是个好日子,因为在这一天他终于完成了底特律第55消防队的训练,即将正式成为一名消防员。按照传统,新人入队都要给同事们带点小礼物,通常都是甜甜圈之类的食物。

罗伯特想来点新意,带了个西瓜作为入队礼物,并且颇费心思地在西瓜上打了一粉红色缎带蝴蝶结。未曾想,这个精心准备的礼物却给自己带来了意想不到的恶果。

底特律第55消防队90%的消防员都是非裔黑人,而这些黑人同事一看到罗伯特带来的礼物,都表示了极度愤慨,称这是赤裸裸的种族歧视。

时下较为流行的观点认为,西瓜原生地在非洲,它原是葫芦科野生植物,后经人工培植成为食用西瓜。约四千年前,埃及人开始种植西瓜,后来逐渐北移。最初由地中海沿岸传至北欧,其后又南下进入中东、印度等地域。四五世纪时,由西域传入中国,故而名之为“西瓜”。

 



2018年4月29日,孟加拉船夫在布里甘甘河上搬运西瓜(图源:VCG)



2015年5月25日,北京大兴西瓜节上,一名男子头戴西瓜制成的头盔站在西瓜雕刻旁(图源:Reuters)



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在美国非裔群体看来,西瓜涉及到一段令这个群体极为痛苦的历史。据传,在美国奴隶制时期黑奴所能获得的最好奖励即是一块西瓜。当时的白人阶层普遍认为黑人目光短浅,容易满足,毕生追求不过是短暂的休息和一块西瓜。

南北战争期间,喜食西瓜的黑人成为美国南方奴隶主嘲笑的对象,被讽为是一群只知在农田里啃西瓜的懒货和蠢货,并因此宣称他们不配获得自由。黑奴解放后,仍有一些小剧团将“黑人爱吃瓜”当成“梗”进行各种演绎创作,以嘲笑黑人的懒惰和愚蠢。

对于在美非裔群体来说,虽然他们也很喜欢享用多汁甘甜的西瓜,但是如果其他族群的人,尤其是白人若在他们面前提到西瓜,总会令他们产生不愉快的联想,甚至会上升到种族歧视的高度

2013年《赫芬顿邮报》的一篇文章中,一位黑人作者讲述了其常驻亚洲的一位朋友有次在巴西旅游时提出请他喝西瓜汁,当时他的内心立刻闪过了一丝不悦,并伴随而来了突然的“冷场”。



以西瓜为材料制作的美食(图源:VCG)

2014年,《波士顿先驱报》为讽刺白宫保安纰漏曾发布过一张漫画,引发诸多争议。漫画中一男子跑进白宫,坐在浴缸内向奥巴马(Barack Obama)总统推销西瓜口味牙膏,因为漫画中的牙膏是西瓜味,报社后因种族歧视倾向而向公众道歉,并将漫画里的“西瓜”改成了“草莓”。

同一年,加利福尼亚州康科德一所女子高中在黑人历史月时期,因菜单中出现西瓜、炸鸡、玉米等,被学生家长怒指种族歧视,校长不得不因此出面道歉。2017年3月,美国一位警察则因在脸书(Facebook)上发布了一张头顶西瓜皮,戴着一副西瓜瓤形状的搞笑眼镜的图片而被开除。

以上种种,对于罗伯特竟然把西瓜带到非裔群体占90%的消防队来,黑人消防员很生气也就不足为奇了。底特律消防队为此特意发表声明称,消防队对种族歧视行为零容忍,对于正在试用期的罗伯特冒犯了同事的行为,消防队认为最好的处理方式就是解雇。

虽然罗伯特觉得很冤,也并不是所有的美国人都清楚西瓜与种族主义在本国的关联,但相关人士表示,将具有种族歧视意味的西瓜带到一个以黑人为主的消防队来,不是一个失误可以解释的。

当下这个时代,国与国,人与人之间的联系越来越多元,因历史和文化背景不同而引发的文化冲击益发常见。在一些人心目中美好的东西,因为历史赋予了其特殊的烙印,在另一些人心目中则可能意味着伤害

试想,“731”这一组数字在很多国家的人看来并没什么,但若是中国人看到日本人身穿宣扬“731”数字的T恤,怕是会引起一场网络大战。多一些对过往的了解,也便多了一份尊重。






How Watermelons Became a Racist Trope

Before its subversion in the Jim Crow era, the fruit symbolized black self-sufficiency.

WILLIAM R. BLACK DEC 8, 2014


COURTESY BROWN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

It seems as if every few weeks there’s another watermelon controversy. TheBoston Herald got in trouble for publishing a cartoon of the White House fence-jumper, having made his way into Obama’s bathroom, recommending watermelon-flavored toothpaste to the president. A high-school football coach in Charleston, South Carolina, was briefly fired for a bizarre post-game celebration ritual in which his team smashed a watermelon while making ape-like noises. While hosting the National Book Awards, author Daniel Handler (a.k.a. Lemony Snicket) joked about how his friend Jacqueline Woodson, who had won the young people’s literature award for her memoir Brown Girl Dreaming, was allergic to watermelon. And most recently, activists protesting the killing of Michael Brown were greeted with an ugly display while marching through Rosebud, Missouri, on their way from Ferguson to Jefferson City: malt liquor, fried chicken, a Confederate flag, and, of course, a watermelon.

While mainstream-media figures deride these instances of racism, or at least racial insensitivity, another conversation takes place on Twitter feeds and comment boards: What, many ask, does a watermelon have to do with race? What’s so offensive about liking watermelon? Don’t white people like watermelon too? Since these conversations tend to focus on the individual intent of the cartoonist, coach, or emcee, it’s all too easy to exculpate them from blame, since the racial meaning of the watermelon is so ambiguous.

But the stereotype that African Americans are excessively fond of watermelon emerged for a specific historical reason and served a specific political purpose. The trope came into full force when slaves won their emancipation during the Civil War. Free black people grew, ate, and sold watermelons, and in doing so made the fruit a symbol of their freedom. Southern whites, threatened by blacks’ newfound freedom, responded by making the fruit a symbol of black people’s perceived uncleanliness, laziness, childishness, and unwanted public presence. This racist trope then exploded in American popular culture, becoming so pervasive that its historical origin became obscure. Few Americans in 1900 would’ve guessed the stereotype was less than half a century old.


Not that the raw material for the racist watermelon trope didn’t exist before emancipation. In the early modern European imagination, the typical watermelon-eater was an Italian or Arab peasant. The watermelon, noted a British officer stationed in Egypt in 1801, was “a poor Arab’s feast,” a meager substitute for a proper meal. In the port city of Rosetta he saw the locals eating watermelons “ravenously ... as if afraid the passer-by was going to snatch them away,” and watermelon rinds littered the streets. There, the fruit symbolized many of the same qualities as it would in post-emancipation America: uncleanliness, because eating watermelon is so messy. Laziness, because growing watermelons is so easy, and it’s hard to eat watermelon and keep working—it’s a fruit you have to sit down and eat. Childishness, because watermelons are sweet, colorful, and devoid of much nutritional value. And unwanted public presence, because it’s hard to eat a watermelon by yourself.  These tropes made their way to America, but the watermelon did not yet have a racial meaning. Americans were just as likely to associate the watermelon with white Kentucky hillbillies or New Hampshire yokels as with black South Carolina slaves.

Soon after winning their emancipation, many African Americans sold watermelons in order to make a living outside the plantation system. (Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper)


This may be surprising given how prominent watermelons were in enslaved African Americans’ lives. Slave owners often let their slaves grow and sell their own watermelons, or even let them take a day off during the summer to eat the first watermelon harvest. The slave Israel Campbell would slip a watermelon into the bottom of his cotton basket when he fell short of his daily quota, and then retrieve the melon at the end of the day and eat it. Campbell taught the trick to another slave who was often whipped for not reaching his quota, and soon the trick was widespread. When the year’s cotton fell a few bales short of what the master had figured, it simply remained “a mystery.”

But Southern whites saw their slaves’ enjoyment of watermelon as a sign of their own supposed benevolence. Slaves were usually careful to enjoy watermelon according to the code of behavior established by whites. When an Alabama overseer cut open watermelons for the slaves under his watch, he expected the children to run to get their slice. One boy, Henry Barnes, refused to run, and once he did get his piece he would run off to the slave quarters to eat out of the white people’s sight. His mother would then whip him, he remembered, “fo’ being so stubborn.” The whites wanted Barnes to play the part of the watermelon-craving, juice-dribbling pickaninny. His refusal undermined the tenuous relationship between master and slave.





Emancipation, of course, destroyed that relationship. Black people grew, ate, and sold watermelons during slavery, but now when they did so it was a threat to the racial order. To whites, it seemed now as if blacks were flaunting their newfound freedom, living off their own land, selling watermelons in the market, and—worst of all—enjoying watermelon together in the public square. One white family in Houston was devastated when their nanny Clara left their household shortly after her emancipation in 1865. Henry Evans, a young white boy to whom Clara had likely been a second mother, cried for days after she left. But when he bumped into her on the street one day, he rejected her attempt to make peace. When Clara offered him some watermelon, Henrytold her that “he would not eat what free negroes ate.”

Newspapers amplified this association between the watermelon and the free black person. In 1869, Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper published perhaps the first caricature of blacks reveling in watermelon. The adjoining article explained, “The Southern negro in no particular more palpably exhibits his epicurean tastes than in his excessive fondness for watermelons. The juvenile freedman is especially intense in his partiality for that refreshing fruit.”


Perhaps the first printed illustration of the racist watermelon trope, c. 1869. (Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper)


Two years later, a Georgia newspaper reported that a black man had been arrested for poisoning a watermelon with the intent of killing a neighbor. The story was headlined “Negro Kuklux” and equated black-on-black violence with the Ku Klux Klan, asking facetiously whether the Radical Republican congressional subcommittee investigating the Klan would investigate this freedman’s actions. The article began with a scornful depiction of the man on his way to the courthouse: “On Sabbath afternoon we encountered a strapping 15th Amendment bearing an enormous watermelon in his arms en route for the Court-house.” It was as if the freedman’s worst crime was not attempted murder but walking around in public with that ridiculous fruit.

The primary message of the watermelon stereotype was that black people were not ready for freedom. During the 1880 election season, Democratsaccused the South Carolina state legislature, which had been majority-black during Reconstruction, of having wasted taxpayers’ money on watermelons for their own refreshment; this fiction even found its way into history textbooks. D. W. Griffith’s white-supremacist epic film The Birth of a Nation, released in 1915, included a watermelon feast in its depiction of emancipation, as corrupt northern whites encouraged the former slaves to stop working and enjoy some watermelon instead. In these racist fictions, blacks were no more deserving of freedom than were children.


As mass-produced pianos and sheet music became popular in the late nineteenth century, so did “coon songs,” popular tunes that mocked African Americans for their lazy, shiftless, childish ways. (Courtesy Brown University Library)


By the early twentieth century, the watermelon stereotype was everywhere—potholders, paperweights, sheet music, salt-and-pepper shakers. A popular postcard portrayed an elderly black man carrying a watermelon in each arm only to happen upon a stray chicken. The man laments, “Dis am de wust perdickermunt ob mah life.” As a black man, the postcard implied, he had few responsibilities and little interest in anything beyond his own stomach. Edwin S. Porter, famous for directing The Great Train Robbery in 1903, co-directedThe Watermelon Patch two years later, which featured “darkies” sneaking into a watermelon patch, men dressed as skeletons chasing away the watermelon thieves (à la the Ku Klux Klan, who dressed as ghosts to frighten blacks), a watermelon-eating contest, and a band of white vigilantes ultimately smoking the watermelon thieves out of a cabin. The long history of white violence to maintain the racial order was played for laughs.

It may seem silly to attribute so much meaning to a fruit. And the truth is that there is nothing inherently racist about watermelons. But cultural symbols have the power to shape how we see our world and the people in it, such as when police officer Darren Wilson saw Michael Brown as a superhuman “demon.” These symbols have roots in real historical struggles—specifically, in the case of the watermelon, white people’s fear of the emancipated black body. Whites used the stereotype to denigrate black people—to take something they were using to further their own freedom, and make it an object of ridicule. It ultimately does not matter if someone means to offend when they tap into the racist watermelon stereotype, because the stereotype has a life of its own.

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